Our Man Sietsema: 'a mouthful that resembles the aftermath of a blowjob'

"'That's sea urchin, by the way, not street urchin,' I pontificated to my companions. It didn't elicit much of a laugh."

Oh, Sietsema. We would have laughed at that joke, for sure. This week, Our man checked out Japanese home-cooking at Chiyono, a homey spot amid the Indian eateries on East 6th Street.

At Chiyono, fishy potato croquettes abound, and the gyoza are made to order. Unsurprisingly, vegetarians might as well skip it:

Filled with a coarse mixture of ground pork, the gyoza are miraculously thin-skinned. The vegetarian version—stuffed with seaweed, shiitakes, and tofu—doesn't taste nearly as good.

There are also adventures to be had, like the pirikara-konnyaku, hunks of starch with soy sauce and bonito flakes on top, and then there's this:

A mouthful starts out damp and chewy, then resolves itself into a liquid gooeyness that resembles the aftermath of a blowjob.

But you'll have to find out what that is for yourself.


328 East 6th Street

(212) 673-3984

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