Our Man Sietsema: 'Let's See if it Has Any Balls'

As you would imagine, it's pretty entertaining to eat at a gimmicky restaurant with Our Man Sietsema. In a city so ready to worship any new-fangled chefiness, Sietsema can chuckle at the trends that intimidate and impress others. And still, he almost always finds something to admire. This week, he reports on The In LW12 in the Meatpacking District.

The barroom downstairs is where you'll be stuck if the host doesn't like your looks. While the view of Gansevoort Market預 cobbled square once inhabited by pushcarts, later by transgender prostitutes擁s enjoyable, the barroom's heavy unscootable stools, cramped communal tables, and refractory overworked servers might piss you off.

His main criticism, stools -- and prices aside -- is that the menu is too meek in its Canadian-ness, which is the theme: "You'll find no Montreal smoked meat on the menu, no grilled northern pike, no bear chops, no braised deer or elk. The Inn LW12 simply isn't trying hard enough. Or maybe it has a low estimate of your ability to withstand real Canadian food." But still, Our Man raves about the "classic" poutine, the compressed pig foot, and the very un-Canadian lamb burger.

The Inn LW12

7 Ninth Avenue

(212) 206-0300

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