Our Man Sietsema: 'The Sauce Tasted Like Pure Chlorophyll'
Perhaps you've heard, Bed-Stuy is the new Fort Greene -- or something. EfV recently relocated to 11216 ourself, and therefore read Our Man Sietsema's latest review with attention even more rapt than usual.
He visited Le Conakry, on Broadway, for some Guinean food, plus a few Senegalese dishes, and came away satisfied but not ecstatic, and somewhat perplexed by the condiments. (There was ketchup on the table, but there was also pima, a scotch bonnet sauce that made Our Man weep. We have seen him eat pima before and were thoroughly emasculated.)
The menu at Le Conakry, and the Guinean cuisine at large, is French-influenced and sauce-driven. Sietsema sampled a few gravies over rice, but the dish that sounded best to us was more in the tradition of Guinea's neighbor to the East:
"Central to Ivorian cuisine is athieke, a moist heap of off-white cassava meal that, when prepared correctly (as it was in this case), plumps up like couscous. Le Conakry serves it in the traditional manner, topped with a whole grilled fish ($9)揺ere a pleasantly muddy-tasting tilapia garnished with a tongue-tingling relish of mustard and onion."