Our Man Sietsema: 'Like a Culinary Jekyll and Hyde

Our man dines at Jimmy's 43 this week, and weighs the Jekyll (modern, market-driven dishes) against the Hyde ("gussied-up bar food"). Both get high marks, but you'll have to read the review to find out which is ultimately more successful. Sietsema particularly raves about the smoked pork loin, a late-summer heirloom tomato salad, and a snack of honey and fennel pollen-spritzed walnuts. "One expects to be attacked by bees while downing this crunchy and profuse treat." Those nuts sound like they'd go better with a beer attack, thogh, and Jimmy's pays plenty of atention to that need, too.

Who would bother with wine when you can get a Goliath Triple Ale from Belgium ($9 per goblet), or Blue Point's Oktoberfest Ale from Long Island? Since Jimmy's partly espouses locavore thinking, you'd better select an imperial pint of Bengali Tiger I.P.A. from Six Points Brewery ($7), located just across the river in Red Hook.



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