Our Man Sietsema: 'A Bewildering 246-Item Menu'

Our Man has crashed a Chinese wedding, sampled the foods of many regions, and emerged to declare Pacificana, known mostly for its dim sum, a worthy dinner destination. The huge menu is Cantonese-focused, but sprawls in all directions. Sietsema was pleased with the Northern ventures in lamb and a Hakaniese pork belly, but he advises Sichuan lovers to skip the bland version at Pacificana.

As for the main event, the Cantonese strengths come from the sea—or the fish tank, anyway:

Offered with little fanfare on the lengthy seafood menu, pan-fried whole flounder ($22.95) is a miracle of the fryer's art, and crisp with a rice-flour coating. The maître'd sailed over to ceremoniously debone it, and the freshness and clear flavor of the fish was riveting. And why not? It had been swimming in a tank at the end of the room a few moments ago.

Pacificana

813 55th Street

Sunset Park

(718) 871-2880


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