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Restaurant Girl's Dirty Little Habit

Posted by Nina Lalli at 1:01 PM, January 15, 2008

We'd love to have better things to do than comment on this, but we feel compelled to raise one small point in the case of the restaurant critic—believed to be Restaurant Girl, a/k/a Danyelle Freeman—who left her notebook behind at Brasserie 44. (Freeman's review of the restaurant appears in today's Daily News.)

Unsurprisingly, Joshua David Stein, at Gawker, has the meanest reaction to the RG blunder, while Josh Ozersky at Grub Street says "who cares?" In his opinion, it's just an inconsequential case of sloppiness. For our part, we're more alarmed by the existence of the notebook itself than the leaving of it. None of the critics we know take notes in restaurants at all. That would seem a tad conspicuous, but then again, they also don't have their head-shots published with their columns.

more: In the News

comments: 0

Food Network: Emeril Out, Batali Close Behind?

Posted by Nina Lalli at 6:10 PM, December 17, 2007

The New York Times' article about the Food Network today was probably most remarkable for its totally incomprehensible photo illustration, which we would love to show you, but then they would get mad. So, just check it out, and then please let us know what is going on. Is the idea that people are throwing tomatoes at the TV??

Aside from that, the article, which ran in the Business section, details the changing winds over at Food TV, which representatives from the channel describe as "broadening" and "becoming a brand." This brand stuff means taking big-mouthed nobodies and making them famous, and then owning them completely, rather than capitalizing on the reputation of well-known chefs, as it did originally. And it makes sense. For them.

The best part is Mario Batali's artfully phrased diss on the Food Network:

“They don’t need me. They have decided they are mass market and they are going after the Wal-Mart crowd,” which he said was “a smart business decision. So they don’t need someone who uses polysyllabic words from other languages.”

His new Spain travel show, with Gwyneth Paltrow and Mark Bittman, will be shown on Public TV (as will Sara Moulton's new cooking show). Batali says it was not offered to the Food Network. The Food Network says they passed on it. Juicy, juicy.

Batali also mentions some ideas the network has for him—"Molto" is long dead, but he is still an Iron Chef, and there is some talk of the orange-clogged teddy bear hosting a reality show)—but it seems there's some tension here...

more: In the News

comments: 11

Locavorism Gets a Little Easier for New Yorkers

Posted by Nina Lalli at 3:43 PM, December 14, 2007

We like to cook with the seasons, mostly because the tomatoes we have access to right now aren't worth eating, but the idea of becoming an official locavore is a bit intimidating. (Also, we love dirty ethnic eats way too much.) But for stocking the cabinets at home, the Locavore's Guide to New York City, by blogger Leda Meredith, which lists how many miles from the City each producer is located, will surely come in handy—whether you're a fundamentalist locavore or a moderate. Some sections, like dairy, are more useful than others, like nuts and seeds. If you have tips, they are welcome at locavoreguide@localfork.com.

comments: 1

Locavore: Oxford Word of the Year

Posted by Nina Lalli at 1:46 PM, November 12, 2007

Nice work, Greenmarket fanatics. The New Oxford American Dictionary announces today that Locavore is not only a word, but their chosen word of the year.

“The word ‘locavore’ shows how food-lovers can enjoy what they eat while still appreciating the impact they have on the environment,” said Ben Zimmer, editor for American dictionaries at Oxford University Press. “It’s significant in that it brings together eating and ecology in a new way.”

Just FYI, some of the runners-up include cougar (as in old lady slut), mumblecore, and tase (the verb).

more: In the News

comments: 0

New Yorkers are Just Naturally Stressed Out

Posted by Nina Lalli at 1:17 PM, November 9, 2007

As we sat sipping coffee from an over-sized mug this morning, we were surprised to find out that, according to a new study, New York is the third-least caffeinated cities in the country. We were not surprised that those hippies in San Fransisco were on that list, or the laid-back kids in Philly. But not us! And more surprising, Tampa is the second-most hopped up city. Tampa?

more: In the News

comments: 0

Jerry Seinfeld Shills for McDonald's

Posted by Nina Lalli at 11:12 AM, November 5, 2007

It must be confusing being a Seinfeld spawn. At home, you've got Mom's spinach-loded brownies (do those really fool you?) but then you put on the TV and Dad's saying "At least there's always breakfast!" in reference to a McDonald's sausage McMuffin.

We happened to see the commercial last night and the timing made us cringe a bit. Turns out we're not the first to notice.

more: In the News

comments: 0

Food Work Almost as Depressing as Diaper Changing

Posted by Nina Lalli at 12:44 PM, October 24, 2007

You know your roommate is super cranky when she gets home from her waitressing job? And she can only curl up with a little whisky and grunt at you? Don't be so hard on her, she's in the second most depressing profession there is. According to a government report brought to our attention by Our Man Sietsema, food industry workers are almost as depressed as people who change the diapers of the elderly!

more: In the News

comments: 0

Confirmed: Gwyneth Not Worthy of Spain

Posted by Nina Lalli at 4:40 PM, October 5, 2007

Since hearing about the new food/travel show with Gwyneth Paltrow, Mario Batali, Mark Bittman, and Spanish actress Bassols, I've been wondering if Gwyneth is still a macrobiotic vegetarian raw food whatever she is, and apparently the answer is yes. The show, "Spain ... on the road again" is filming now for PBS, and Pop Sugar has this quote from Gwyneth, who was a foreign exchange student in Spain during high school:

"I think my Spanish father will kill me when I refuse to eat jamon Jabugo. [But] I haven't eaten anything from a four-footed animal since I was about 15."

Boo hiss! Can he adopt me instead? If I was willing to wear a Yankee uniform around the house for my real dad until puberty, I can definitely make this pig lover proud.

more: In the News

comments: 3

Musto Goes to the Vendys, Finds no Hot Dogs

Posted by Nina Lalli at 3:31 PM, October 3, 2007

Another one of Our Men, Michael Musto, steps into the food world this week. On Saturday, he was one of the judges -- and the one to announce the winner at the Vendy Awards. Here's what he had to say:

Street vendors of all nations gathered in Tompkins Square Park last Saturday for the Vendy Award finals, which I judged while trying to maintain a waist. I expected piles of hot dogs, but instead was lavished with ox tails, soy drumsticks, and something even the vendor couldn't identify. The best attitude belonged to the taco lady who, when I announced myself as a judge, ballsily served someone else first. She left before the proceedings were even finished, and fellow judge Mo Roca swore she'd been carted out by immigration, though it was probably just Bill O'Reilly. The top winner was Thiru "Dosa Man" Kumar from NY Dosas, who vowed to keep not killing animals.

He told me the Dosa Man had been his personal favorite. Meanwhile, why does Mo Roca still exist? Bleah. Check out lots of cool photos of the festivities, which included dancing girls, here.

more: In the News

comments: 0

The Vendy Awards: Dosa Man Rules, Finally

Posted by Nina Lalli at 2:24 PM, October 1, 2007

This year, we failed to make it to the Vendy Awards before the food started running out, but we were there to cheer for the Dosa Man, Thiru Kumar, when he finally won first place. It was a touching moment, because Kumar has been a finalist each year (this was the third). In the Vendy Award program, Kumar says there are some things he still misses about Sri Lanka. "I love the water, and my best memories are of swimming in the ocean that surrounds Sri Lanka. I still love to swim, and now I go on Long Island at Jones Beach, which is almost as good."

Aw, Dosa Man. If you've never visited him in Washington Square Park (Washington Square South & Sullivan Street), uh, you're a weirdo. Also, stay tuned for Michael Musto's take on the event. He was a judge, and announced the winner.

more: In the News

comments: 0

Bill Clinton is Really Mad at Osso Buco Restaurant

Posted by Nina Lalli at 2:31 PM, September 26, 2007

Somehow, while I can barely find time to exfoliate or sleep, Bill Clinton has time to freak out about some old photo of Chelsea at Osso Buco, on University Place. The restaurant has, among a million reviews and other crap in the window, a shot of the former first daughter with Nino Selimaj, the owner. Clinton's office sent a letter to Selimaj demanding that he take down the photo, which Chelsea never consented to have displayed, or else. Read the letter on the Smoking Gun.

more: In the News

comments: 1

And... Exhale, Taco Lovers

Posted by Nina Lalli at 3:07 PM, September 6, 2007

We allowed ourselves to feel optimistic about the fate of the Red Hook Ball Field vendors a few weeks ago, but still worried we might jinx it. But today, The Times reports that our huaraches are safe for the remainder of the season (until 10/21).

As for next year, Adrian Benepe seems to have re-cast the fall bidding process, emphasizing community over cash-flow, which is really the only hope for this deliciousness:

The [Parks] department, in a statement, said it is drafting a request for proposals, to be released this fall, for future food vending at Red Hook Park. The request “differs from competitive bidding in that the amount of the bid is not the main criteria for selection,” according to the statement, which added, “Parks will also be looking at a bidder’s prior experience, longstanding community relations, and the variety of cuisine offered, when making a determination.”

more: In the News

comments: 0

Dumpling Demise: May May to Close this Month

Posted by Nina Lalli at 1:10 PM, September 4, 2007

The Times reported on Sunday that the beloved Chinatown bakery/dumpling factory May May will be closing its doors at the end of the month. And it's not development or waning dumpling appreciation or rent hike -- it's the American Dream backfiring. The three brothers who have been running the shop, basically since they were teenagers, are ready to retire, but their kids aren't interested in the dumpling life.

"Our second generation is fully educated, so they don’t want to work as hard as their uncles and their father,” said John Hung, 55, the youngest of the brothers. “This is one thing we most regret. We don’t have the young generation to take over."

Oh man, I bet they feel pretty guilty. Anyway, you're gonna want to get to May May in the next couple of weeks and pack your freezer with dumplings.

May May

35 Pell Street

(212) 267-0733

more: In the News

comments: 0

Restaurant Girl on Centro Vinoteca, EfV on Restaurant Girl

Posted by Nina Lalli at 5:41 PM, August 28, 2007

Restaurant Girl's second review is in, and over at Gawker, we see our first example of the problem with a non-anonymous critic. We may not always know whether the restaurants spot her, but when she gives three stars, readers will have plenty of reason not to trust her. As my slightly preachy journalist dad always says, pushing up his sleeves for emphasis, "a conflict of interest -- or the appearance of one -- Same thing!"

The good news is, this week Freeman toned down the body metaphors, but she still used a lot of adjectives and adverbs that slowed us down. Most confusing was her declaration that the guanciale in a raviolo dish was "smoky." A quick call to the kitchen confirmed that the guanciale at Centro Vinoteca, like all guanciale we've encountered, isn't smoked.

Centro Vinoteca

74 Seventh Avenue South

(212) 367-7470

more: In the News

comments: 4

This Just in: Official Ball Field Statement from Cesar Fuentes

Posted by Nina Lalli at 12:46 PM, August 22, 2007

Cesar Fuentes, who organizes and runs the Latin food vendor operations in Red Hook Park, dropped an email in our box this morning detailing the current Health Department situation. There's some good news, in the short term: the Health Department made a deal with the vendors that they could finish the season (which goes into the fall) if the cooks and their "assistants" (ie: brothers, daughters, etc.) took food food protection courses. Cesar reports that over 60 people have completed the course, so things look good -- for now...

Dear Friends,

As a new page unfolds in the struggle to preserve our affair, we feel it is important to provide you with an update on the latest developments affecting our normal operation, as well as our perspective on it.

About 3 weeks ago -1st week of Aug.-, I was told by NYC Parks Dept.(Parks) about the NYC Health Dept.'s(DOH) interest in inspecting our operation that weekend. An impromptu meeting was held on Saturday Aug. 8/4 in Red Hook Park's Recreation center between officials from Parks, DOH, and NYC District 38th Councilmember Sara Gonzalez and myself in representation of the food vendors. An inspection of the food stands followed by DOH Asst. comm. Robert Edmond, who made recommendations onsite and stated a full list of health-related concerns found in our operation would follow. I was called to a meeting on 8/8/07 that was held at DOH offices, where I met with DOH Assoc. Comm. Elliot Marcus and other DOH and Parks representatives to discuss such list. Some the outsdanding and\or critical issues found were the following:

-There is no hot and cold running water.

-There is not enough ice to keep foods cold.

-No food preparation at home.

-Vendors are operating in the park illegally (lack of proper mobile vendors' licenses, food protection course, etc.).

Some of the remedies to these issues as suggested by DOH include:

-Provide portable running water and grey water containment system(s).

-Acquire a freezer truck or at the very least, maintain enough ice in coolers.

-Acquire a mobile kitchen truck, individual food service pushcarts or at the
very least, prep. foods in a DOH approved establishment (restaurant, community kitchen, etc.)

-Vendors (and their assistants) should acquire all licenses and trainings required by DOH and any other city agencies with jurisdiction over our affair, if they are to continue operating the market.

DOH inspectors have been assigned to come down and observe our operation every weekend since these meetings took place. They have done so religiously, inspecting every stand and making on-the-spot corrections (about food prep. & handling) to each vendor as needed. A temptative agreement was reached between DOH and our committee, by which DOH would allow our operation to continue until the end of the season, provided all vendors (and their assistants) take a 2-day, 8 hour food protection course and be in compliance of the critical issues mentioned above. All vendors & assistants committed their time and effort to attending this course, which was set for 8/20 & 8/21. I am proud to report 60+ people attended & passed the required test.

While we are fully commited to meet and\or comply with any rules or regulations that may govern our affair in order to preserve & continue this most beloved tradition, we feel it is very important to portray our perspective on this situation. For most of its 33 years of existence, the Red Hook food vendors have -and continue to- operate from small, modest, and traditional food stands that reflect traditional Mercados (food markets or Bazaars) found in small towns across Latin America. Very little has changed in its appeareance throughout the years. Although to some it may seem unappealing, or even unsanitary to eat from these food stalls, some of the most authentic, delicious, and traditional Latin American dishes that are now becoming part of the American culinary mainstream, such as the taco, pupusa, and huarache, hail their origins -and earned their fame- from such establishments. Much of the methods involved in the preparation of this ethnic dishes are still faithful to their origins.

In complying with DOH regulations, these artisan vendors are now faced with the difficult task of adapting tradition in order to meet these standards. While some of these regulations are common sense and easy to comply, such as licenses & permits, some others -such as a possible requirement of heavy mobile equipment or push-carts for each vendor, or the provision of permanent running water- will be more difficult as it may require major capital investment that the vendors or our committe cannot afford. In addition, and provided we are successful in winning the Parks permit which would grant us right to operate our affair for seasons to come, DOH won't allow our affair in its current form and without every vendor and their assistants being fully licensed.

It is important for us at this moment to assure all our patrons that the quality of the foods served by the food vendors is still held at the same standards- as it has been for over 30 years- our patrons have come to exect. There is love, care, and tradition behind every plate served by the artisan vendors.

It is also very important to understand DOH's enforcement was not caused by a food-related complaint. Their explanation of this sudden enforcement is based on the fact that our humble affair went under their radar until we became prominent. We understand that their intention is to protect the consumer & we agree with that. In addition, we must thank their decision not to strictly enforce and close our affair at once. Instead, their decision to train the vendors, accomodating to their schedules & waiving a fee shows good will towards the vendors. Parks Dept. has also been increasingly helpful and sensitized to our needs, assuring our group assistance and support to help comply with DOH's demands and\or requirements.

In all truth, it is because of your staunch support, advocacy, and requests to local elected officials on our behalf that we still have a fighting chance to preserve our affair. Special thanks to Sen. Schumer's office (Sam Schaeffer), as well as the offices of councilmember DiBlasio, congresswoman Velasquez, and congressman Nader for their offering of support. Above all, our staunchest advocate and official 'spokesblog' the Porkchop Express, and councilwoman Sara Gonzalez, who went above and beyond to make time of her busy schedule and come on last moment's notice to personally represent us and her constituents before Parks and DOH officials. Her presence certaintly sent a message of solidarity and strenght from all parties interested in preserving our affair.

Our deepest thanks to all.

Cesar Fuentes

Executive Director

Food Vendors Committee of Red Hook Park Inc.

PO box 48

New York, NY 10159

myspace

more: In the News

comments: 0

New Iron Chef to Join the Show

Posted by Nina Lalli at 5:45 PM, August 21, 2007

Like so many reality shows before it, Iron Chef is spawning one of those meta-spinoffs, in which The Food Network is searching for The! Next! Iron! Chef! We can already only stomach a battle against Mario Batali, and the token lady chef, Cat Cora, who makes Southern food with a Greek twist was pushing it to begin with. When we heard about this concept, visions of suburban moms fighting to the deaths in "Battle Turkey Burger" flashed in our minds. But the contestants are real chefs. Drum roll please...

John Besh, New Orleans: Executive Chef, Restaurant August, Besh Steak, Luke, and La Provence.

Chris Cosentino, San Francisco: Executive Chef, Incanto.

Jill Davie, Santa Monica: Executive Chef, JOSIE.

Traci Des Jardins, San Francisco: Executive Chef & Co-Owner, Jardiniere, Mijita, and Acme Chophouse.

Gavin Kaysen, San Diego: Chef de Cuisine, El Bizcocho at the Rancho Bernardo Inn.

Morou Ouattara, Washington, DC: Executive Chef & Owner, Farrah Olivi.

Aaron Sanchez, New York: Executive Chef & Owner, Centrico and Paladar.

Michael Symon, Cleveland: Executive Chef & Owner, Lola and Lolita.

The six-episode series starts on October 7 (9PM). The winner will join the other Iron Chefs when the new season of Iron Chef premieres on November 18.

more: In the News

comments: 0

Restaurant Girl: Things That Make Us Go 'Wha?'

Posted by Nina Lalli at 4:42 PM, August 21, 2007

RG's first photo spread review came out this morning, in which she criticizes Gemma, which is barely open but already trendy. In short, the sort of place we would never go anyway. Here are a couple of vocabulary choices from the piece that have us scratching our heads, or even feeling slightly uncomofortable:

"Equally, a sheath of black-truffle paté and lemon arouses amply fresh sea scallops."

"The enormous wood oven also births sweet sensations, including an excellent dessert calzone."

more: In the News

comments: 3

Summer Squash: We've Had it Up to Here

Posted by Nina Lalli at 4:43 PM, August 20, 2007

The Time's Magazine, has an article about expensive summer squash that is in no way different from regular summer squash. Daniel Patterson seems incredulous at first about what he calls "luxury squash," which he buys in San Francisco for $3.99 per pound.

Acknowledging the stuff as "the most prolific and banal of summer vegetables," but, applying the logic that if it's expensive, it must be good, he finds a way to go along with it: "I was disturbed but also intrigued: perhaps familiarity had blinded me to squash’s delicate charms — at these prices it clearly deserved more than a typically bland sauté or a quick turn on the grill."

The grilled terrine he makes does sound tasty, if incredibly gay, but as a proud CSA member, I have been up to here with summer squash for the past couple of months and I'm not all that charmed. Perhaps it's my own laziness. Confronted with a few new pounds of summer squash every Tuesday, I've taken to chucking them into salads and pasta, making soups with them, or just eating them raw with salt to stave off the guilt of wasting food. They're like some cousin who comes to visit every summer. She's nice, there's nothing wrong with her, but after she leaves you sort of forget she exists until next year.

more: In the News

comments: 0

Ball Fields to Get Colder, Sweeter

Posted by Nina Lalli at 8:02 AM, August 20, 2007

It was with enormous relief that we crossed Bay Street on Saturday afternoon and saw that the ball field vendors had not been squashed by the DOH. In fact the pupusas were selling like... oh God. Sorry.

Anyway, we ran into The Brooklyn Paper reporter Ariella Cohen there, with a goat taco and plenty of information on hand. She wasn't surprised the Health Department hadn't made any dramatic moves that day, and she also seemed to think the vendors were likely to win the bid to operate next year. It's starting to look like that issue could be just a formality.

As Cohen reported on Friday, the Health Department's main concern when inspectors first visited the ball fields on August 8th was cold storage for uncooked meat. The vendors will be investing in more ice and coolers to meet the city's guidelines, but there's another perk: Umberto Carrilo plans to take advantage of the additional ice to serve chocolate-covered bananas, a popular Guatemalan treat. We're down with that.

more: In the News

comments: 3

Will the Ball Field Vendors Flunk Tomorrow's Test?

Posted by Nina Lalli at 5:55 PM, August 17, 2007

Diners Journal acts more like a blog than usual today, with Peter Meehan reporting on the ever-torturous Red Hook Ball Field vendor situation.

Meehan is optimistic about the fate of the Latin American vendors -- in terms of their chances to win a bid to operate next season. But the latest threat to our huaraches addiction is the mean old Department of Health, who swung by on August 8th and were not thrilled with the set-up. They're coming back tomorrow to follow up. As Meehan puts it:

Some requirements, like one specifying that vendors must not store food on the ground, seem easy enough to comply with. Some, like the mandate to “Prepare pre-prepared foods in commercial kitchens or commissaries as required rather than private homes (which are not inspected)”, seem sensible but also a tough hurdle to clear in just 14 days.

We concur. And we're concerned. Stay tuned...

more: In the News

comments: 0

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