When Galen Zamarra first opened Mas (farmhouse) (39 Downing Street, 212-255-1790) in 2004, he dreamed of building a menu with locally sourced ingredients. At the time, though, it wasn't so easy. "There was no infrastructure for a local food system then," he says. "The Greenmarket's been around for a long time, but the Greenmarket can be pretty limited. Even local dairy — the fact that you can get it on a restaurant level is pretty new."