Our Man Sietsema and the Tough Old Cock
This week, Our Man is at Agnanti, a new restaurant in Bay Ridge that specializes in the cooking of the expat Greek community in Turkey.
The background info in this story is classic Our Man—he tells us all the Greeks in Turkey: their history, their cooking and even digs up "Apicius, the Roman Mark Bittman" to comment on a soup. If you got all your history lessons from Our Man's columns, you'd be doing pretty well.
On to the food! Our Man likes it. He especially likes the rooster: "Who'd believe that a tough old cock would cook up so juicy and flavorful?" Ba dum bum.
He also loves the vegetarian stuffed grape leaves, the croquettes of zucchini and cheese and soutzoukakia, ground meat kabobs in tomato sauce flavored with an unexpected jolt of cumin.
A few items get the smackdown. Our Man notes that the kitchen gets a little overzealous with its grill, rendering its grilled meats dry—"a fate that also befalls sardines and pork chops..."
Sigar bourek, sometimes called "fingers of Fatimah...bear an unmistakable resemblance to frozen croissants." Oh snap.
But Our Man finds plenty to like, including the cheese selection.
What's in Pandora's feta? You'll have to read the story to find out.