The Early Word: Ghenet Brooklyn

We stopped by Ghenet Brooklyn, the new Ethiopian on 4th Avenue in Brooklyn last night. The space is tiny, and encircled with delicate metalwork screens. Since there were four of us, we got the Ghenet combination for four, which turned out to basically mean we got everything on the menu—all the vegetarian dishes, as well as doro watt (spiced chicken stew), and sega watt (spiced beef stew). The combo probably could have fed six—it arrived on an enormous plate, with injera layered below and also served on the side. The doro watt was wonderful—bone-in chicken cooked in a thick, darkly spiced sauce with a boiled egg alongside. And all the vegetarian dishes were equally good. We particularly liked the earthy, lemony collard greens, the stewed red lentils and the cabbage and potatoes. We ate until we couldn't. And the combo was only about $55—a good deal, a good meal, we're fans.