Our Man Sietsema and the Exploding M-80 Baby Goat

Our Man Sietsema is at Scott Conant's Scarpetta this week, and he tells us that he's been following Conant's career closely ever since he first tasted Conant's baby goat in 2000 at City Eatery. He says that the goat exploded in his mouth like an M-80, causing the goat-hooked Our Man to limp after Conant ever since.

Even though the goat is back in a in a different incarnation at Scarpetta—not roasted, but instead in a hash cooked with artichokes and potatoes—Our Man has filed a rave. He loves it all, from the bread basket to the agnolotti dal plin. He takes issue with only one dish, a pasta that doesn't quite work.

Here's what he says about the agnolotti dal plin:

These bulbous misshapen pouches contain a divine mix of veal, truffles, and cabbage so finely puréed that it would make excellent toothpaste—though you'd insist on swallowing it after brushing. If you want to freak yourself out with richness, I'd recommend the duck-and-foie-gras raviolis ($22), which resemble Revolutionary War tri-corner hats.

A rave from Sietsema is hard to come by, so we'd suggest you get over to Scarpetta tout suite.