Our Man Sietsema and the Peasant Lard

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This week, Our Man Sietsema eats at Karczma, a new, slightly upscale Polish eatery in Greenpoint, and discovers that the peasant lard contains no actual fat from the underclasses. Nevertheless, he liked the melty, bacon-studded lard, served with rye:

But once we tried it, we were hooked, especially after recalling the recently revealed scientific fact that lard has half the saturated fat of butter. "Eat Healthy—Eat Lard" is our new slogan.

Despite the lard, Karczma is apparently trying to give Polish food a healthy make-over, an effort Our Man does not wholeheartedly support, calling boneless, skinless chicken breast "the world's most unpromising ingredient." (We could not agree more)

But Our Man roots out the good stuff, as he always does. He loves the grilled fresh ham, and finds a servicable beef goulash. And the place is a good value:

Once again, lovers of sheer volume will find much to like on the entrée menu. Special meat selections for two ($22) or four ($31) are so abundant, they really feed three or six. These come with big bowls of roasted potatoes and pork-flecked sauerkraut...

Ah, yes, lovers of sheer volume. We count ourselves among them.

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