Fork in the Road Reviews Peaches Market

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This week, I'm at Peaches Market, the new restaurant in Stuyvesant Heights from Craig Samuel and Ben Grossman, who also own Smoke Joint and Little Piggy, both in Fort Greene.

Peaches is busy on most nights, and it's possible that it got popular more quickly than Samuel and Grossman anticipated. Some of the food, especially the Cajun and Creole offerings, are not as good as they sound. At the same time, there are spectacular fried green tomatoes, cornmeal-fried fish, smoked beef short ribs and crisp-skinned, lemony roast chicken. Not only that, but the place is one of the most utterly pleasant places I've been to recently--it's lively and relaxed and charming in an uncalculated way.

I don't know if I would make a special trip from another borough to eat there, but that isn't the point of Peaches anyway--it's not meant to be a destination restaurant. It's meant to be a Brooklyn neighborhood restaurant, from a couple of Brooklyn-born restaurateurs. And in that sense, Peaches is pretty great.

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