Sietsema's Cheap Eats: Mole Pipian

Breathing into a paper bag over the bad money news? Have no fear, we've got mountains of delicious cheap food in New York (see our Cheap Lunch! series), and Our Man Sietsema sniffs it out everyday.

Sietsema's Cheap Eats school is once again in session.

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A tender half chicken lies smothered in mole pipian – a sauce that was invented by Mexican Indians long before the Conquistadores showed up and introduced Spanish flourishes to Mexican cooking. Made from ground pumpkinseeds, the mole is spicy and mellow at the same time and utterly delicious, despite its slightly disturbing green color. The sauce is made from scratch at New Tulcingo Restaurant (1035 Manhattan Avenue, Greenpoint, Brooklyn, 718-349-0033), and comes accompanied by plainish pinto beans and moist yellow rice, with a plate of fresh white-corn tortillas so you can eat the meal as a series of makeshift wraps. The price: $6.75.

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