Fork in the Road Raises her Cholesterol at Char No. 4

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In this week's paper, I review Char No. 4, the temple to whiskey and homemade bacon on Smith Street in Brooklyn.

Don't go unless you want to wear bacon perfume for the rest of the day—the whole place is filled with the aroma of pork belly being smoked. My dog thought I smelled great.

Char No. 4 isn't a restaurant that's going to change your life, but it can be a very, very pleasurable place if you like pork and booze. (And Southern-style stewed greens, which are actually a pork sub-category.) The whiskey list is pricey, but features hundreds of choices, some of which are hard to find elsewhere.

The menu makes prolific use of the homemade bacon, and of the fryer. Most of it is successful, including an unusual BLT, which features a slab of deep-fried bacon. Bring your Lipitor.


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