Sichuan Sears Smith Street

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Misspelling "Szechuan," perhaps for the purpose of suggesting the bad old Szechuan restaurants of the Upper West Side in the 1970s, Szechuan Gourmet gets the pin yin spelling right a mere inch below on the front page of its carryout menu, proclaiming "Authetic Sichuan Cusine." You wouldn't expect it, and certainly not on Smith Street. Though the degree of heat is somewhat restrained, much of the Sichuan dishes are marvelous. Shown above are the wontons Chengdu style, named after the Sichuan capital, and shown below is the tea-smoked duck, prettily showered with shredded scallions. The Sichuan stuff must be mined from among the normal Cantonese dishes typical of carryout Chinese establishments -- look in the "Chef's Specialties" and "Appetizers" to find it. 176 Smith Street, Brooklyn, 718-643-0377

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