Taste Test -- Burger Creations

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Forget the rather frou-frou name -- Burger Creations throws down its albeit tiny gauntlet to the esteemed burger chain Five Guys, which has been steamrollering around town lately, setting up branches in every available space. Burger Creations creates a similar size burger, then dumps it on a luxe brioche bun with the usual virtuous roughage and mayo-based sauce. Both burger establishments use freshly ground beef ("Never frozen" they both chortle). The difference lies in the fact that, at Burger Creations, you can order your patty done the way you want it, and fear of salmonella be damned. Five Guys, in their correct corporate manner, cooks your beef to a cinder, and one depends upon the accoutrements to provide much-needed moisture. Not everything at Burger Creations is worth scarfing -- the fries are not as good as Five Guys, and the vegetarian burger is like gooey undercooked falafel -- but I'm still dreaming of the burger. In fact, I'm going to jump on my bike and get one right now. 52 East 8th Street, 212-539-1909

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