Incredibly Cheap Eats -- Corner 28

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Street food was, until recently, but a wan presence in Flushing's Chinatown. But now the new northern and western Chinese immigrants have upped the ante with zestier and more profuse street fare. Carts from Xinjiang by way of Peking have profferred fatty lamb kebabs dusted with cumin and hot paprika on every other corner, while windows have popped open all along the western side of Main Street below Roosevelt, slinging brochettes of fish cake boiled in crimson oil, freshly made scallion pancakes the size of phonograph albums, assorted fresh dumplings, and the delicacy pictured above, an individual, hand-held serving of Peking duck. While you might have thought Peking duck was a dish fit for effete banquets, here it is ably translated into street fare. It begins with a flat steamed bun, folded over a few morsels of densely flavorful duck, scraps of glistening duck skin, and narrow spears of cooling cucumber. It is then finished with a salty and sweet squirt of brown hoisin sauce. Brilliant! Corner 28 Inc., 4028 Main Street, Flushing, 718-886-6628. The cost: $1

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