Incredibly Cheap Eats -- Scallion Pancake

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Northern Chinese food has finally infiltrated Manhattan's Chinatown, appearing at its fringes at a tiny new noodle shop with the enticing name of -- Strange Taste. Much of the menu is Fujianese, including delicious soups with duck and taro, and, for lovers of meat and psychedelia, "beef trip with mei fun soup."

Look around the edges of the menu, however, for the northern (and western) Chinese stuff. There's a good and greasy rendition of dan dan noodles that will set you back only $4, which is quite hot, but a little low on Sichuan peppercorns (the proprietors have the neighborhood's tender-tongued Cantonese and Fujianese to worry about), but even cheaper is the scallion pancake. While not quite a meal, this doughy tuck-in is much bigger than usual, and served with an armada of sauces, of which my fave is chunky chile. 20 Henry Street (25 Catherine Street), 212-285-8727. The cost: $1

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