The Early Word--Seoul Station

Here we have your first look at the Seoul sandwich from Seoul Station, which opened last week. The sandwich ($6.95) is stuffed with shreds of egg, julienned zucchini, carrots, pickled daikon, spinach, shitakes, bean sprouts and "spicy house dressing." To this, you add your choice of beef, ginger chicken, spicy pork, or tofu. To me, that's no contest: spicy pork.

I was looking forward to the pickled diakon/carrot combo, but those tangy elements are much less prominent than they are in, say, a banh mi. The tender bits of pork are sticky with a garlicky, flavorful marinade, but the whole thing could use more oomph--salt and spice. Overall, a good sandwich, but it didn't quite add up to more than the sum of its parts. I'm not sure, for instance, that it's better than the humble bulgogi sandwich from nearby Fusion Wraps. But if you asked for extra spicy sauce, or if Seoul Station offered sliced chiles, matters would definitely improve, and all bets are off.

Seoul Station also offers bi bim bap, kimbap, mandoo, and kimchi stew.

Seoul Station
81 St. Mark's Place
212-979-9300