We've hardly ever met a brat we didn't like and this veal wurst was no different. Straight from the grill and served with a caramelized onion sauce and a side of rösti (crispy potato hash cake), it's the first main course on the dinner menu at Café Select, a cozy Swiss joint on Lafayette owned by Serge Becker from La Esquina across the street. Perfectly snappy yet buttery soft inside, the veal brat is best enjoyed with a glass from Select's all-Alpine wine list. We opted for the house pinot noir, a light-bodied ruby red juice with plenty of clay and mineral. The Feedbag recently wrote about the not-so-secret Back Room at Café Select, but we preferred the hidden alcove just off the main dining room that only fits about four people - maybe six, if there's snuggling involved.