The Early Word--Indian Road

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The restaurant Indian Road is located on Indian Road. Well, duh!

Quick! Where the hell is Indian Road? It's across the street from the Columbia crew house, running from 214th to 218th Street along the northeastern edge of Inwood Hill Park, parallel to the lagoon. It's also a stone's throw from the rock where Peter Minuit bough Manhattan from the Indians for about $200 in colorful beads. Not a bad deal.

make the jump to read about the restaurant called Indian Road

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The scrumptious cauliflower soup at Indian Road

Indian Road, the restaurant, is at the very northwestern corner of Manhattan, a good hike from the A train at 207th and Broadway. As such, it's a good hideaway for that first date, or for a love that dares not speak its name. The place is a combination restaurant, coffee house, and market, though the market part seems poised to disappear. There are two dining rooms, one with a bar, the other with a fireplace, and warm woods cover the walls throughout. It's almost always easy to get a table with a view of the Harlem River, which is what the East River is called in these latitudes.

As befits a place that represents your only chance to get a bite to eat within many blocks, the food is uneven. The bowl of caulifower soup, shown above, was flavored in way that made you think of curry one minute, and Texas chili the next. Indeed, cauliflower soup was something of a misnomer, since the bowl was filled with all sorts of vegetables, of which the cauliflower was barely discernible.

The Indian House salad, made with baby lettuces, goat cheese, and sun-dried tomatoes in a fruity vinaigrette, was delicious, as was the vegetarian entree (the only one on the menu) of Thai green curry, which was heavily laced with coconut milk. Most disappointing was the lobster mac and cheese, which promised truffle oil but did not deliver on that promise. The dish tasted thrown together, so that no lobster flavor managed to penetrate the mac and cheese, which was also on the watery side.

You can't go wrong with the sandwiches and pastries, and, all-in-all, the location is the best part about Indian Road. 600 West 218th Street, 212-942-7451 

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The truffle-free lobster mac-and-cheese at Indian Road

 

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