Under Review--Sietsema At Southern Spice; DiGregorio At Cure & Ballaro
Bruni indulges in mussel mania at Canadian import Flex Mussels, which "approaches mussels the way Baskin-Robbins or Ben & Jerry's approaches ice cream: as a starting point, a canvas, a vehicle for a pleasantly hyperactive imagination."
Adam Platt appreciates the Portuguese-accented fare at pocket-sized Aldea, praising the foie gras terrine with figs, the soft baby calamari, and the shrimp Alhinho, deeming George Mendes' newcomer quite possibly a "prototype of the gourmet restaurant of tomorrow."
Platt also enjoys the amped-up menu at Apiary, with its foamy (really??) diver scallops, sweetbreads in romesco puree, and hamachi crudo topped with shavings of jalapeno a la Jean Georges.
TONY drops in on Emporio, where the bubbly waitresses don't entirely make up for small plates that are "only slightly better than what you'd find at a so-so neighborhood spot." Best to go for the "thin-crust Neapolitan-style pizzas."