Under Review--Sietsema At An Choi; DiGregorio At Aldea

This week in the Voice, Our Man Sietsema puts newcomer An Choi's banh mi to the test; while Sarah DiGregorio ducks it up Iberian-style at Aldea.

Bruni knocks two stars off of Spice Market now that the restaurant has expanded to Atlanta, Istanbul and Doha, Qatar, which could be the reason "sloppiness" has crept in to the kitchen.
[NY Times]

Restaurant Girl gets stuck at table 39 on every visit to Graydon Carter's Monkey Bar, while the balcony is reserved for the likes of Jon Bon Jovi, Betsey Johnson, Jerry Seinfeld and Katie Couric. The meatloaf was mean, but the cavatelli pasta with chewy short ribs was "a dank train wreck."
[NY Daily News]

Ryan Sutton was not impressed with Montenapo in the New York Times Building, which "serves mediocre hotel-Italian at absurd prices," and whose odd beef cube is "tough and muscle-bound, with little marbling, and no bone to preserve tenderness."
[Bloomberg]

Jay Cheshes finds that Rick Laakkonen, once deemed one of the city's most inventive chefs, brings nothing new to the table at Delmonico's, which "ceased to be relevant long ago."
[TONY]