How Do You Spell G-U-T-B-O-M-B? "Baked Potato" at Cowgirl Sea-Horse

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You're sitting at your desk dreaming of a baked potato--piping hot, crisp-skinned, white-fleshed, and surmounted by a cloud of sour cream. Somewhere in there, there's room for a couple of pats of butter, too.

Well, if this savory treat is what you crave, you'll be totally frustrated at newcomer Cowgirl Sea-Horse, which squats at the northernmost end of the South Street Seaport. True to its roots, the only potatoes you'll get there are fried. The "potato" you see above is really an ice cream sundae, and here's how it's made: A big wad of ice cream is rolled in cocoa, which makes the surface look exactly like a potato skin. Into the slit is deposited skads of whipped cream, which does indeed look exactly like sour cream, except for a certain uncharacteristic lightness. On top go two "butter" pats, which are really thick slabs of fondant, which is a kind of thick rubbery frosting used by cake makers. Not sure what function the chocolate syrup serves vis-a-vis the potato, but it makes the whole contraption into a fine, shareable sundae, one that you'll crave even after it's finished. 259 Front Street, 212-608-7873

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