Revisit: The General Greene

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A few blocks east of Ft. Greene Park, the General Greene and its ice cream cart are a prominent fixture of the DeKalb dining scene.

The General Greene came out of the paddock at a trot last August, then vaguely disappointed everyone with interesting-sounding food that was often poorly executed. When I checked the place out at lunch a few months ago, I lamented: "The pulled pork sandwich...organized something like a Cuban sandwich, was a colossal disappointment, since the pork had been rendered into small crisp shards that didn't seem much like pork. The biggest question, was why did the plates arrive so unadorned? Even a diner puts a sprig of parsley on the plate."

Now, a new chef has taken over (Julie Farias, formerly of Ici and Beer Table), and the reduced and reformed menu is coming out of the kitchen with far more persuasion and polish. Folks who didn't mind the place before will be delighted that some of the smaller bar snacks have been retained, including excellent deviled eggs, bacon dates, and the elementary-but-wonderful radishes with sea salt.

Some of the dishes on the new menu have been reformulated. A formerly lackluster beet salad that smothered the painfully purple vegetable in horseradish sauce is now configured as shaved raw beets mixed with mounds of cooked beets, with a few other salad accoutrements, representing a vast improvement. New to the menu is a tofu entree that matches a quavering block of soft tofu with boiled and fried fava beens--the former going "squish" and the latter going "crunch."


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