At the Greenmarket: Smoked Bluefish
Smoked bluefish salad with cherry tomatoes
Ever since Sam Sifton's reminder of just how good bluefish can be, it seems like the grayish, dense, oily, and delicious fish is everywhere--at every fish market in town for $6 a pound; mashed into rillettes at Fort Defiance; and either fresh or smoked at Blue Moon Fish at the Greenmarket.
For $6.95 a pound, Blue Moon's smoked bluefish is a prize--peppery, intensely smoky, and yes, fishy, flaking off the skin in big, moist hunks. Buy a slab of it and mash it up with a bit of mayonnaise, scallions, sliced red chiles, and cherry tomatoes (those last two also from the Greenmarket). Put it on a piece of bread and be happy.
Although it is a predator at the top of the food chain, bluefish appears to be sustainable, and it's fished right off our coast. In the 1990s, stocks dipped from overfishing, but the population was declared rebuilt this year, and is no longer overfished. If you're interested in all the wonky details of the bluefish population, check out NOAA's site.