How Do You Spell G-U-T-B-O-M-B? Pueblan Pata Cemita from La Fiesta in the Bronx

Cemitas are the signature sandwiches of Puebla in southern Mexico, the state from which many New York immigrants come. The hubcab-size round sandwich is made with a special roll that often contains cactus pulp. It is a pleasing shade of medium brown and comes well-coated with sesame seeds.

The sandwich usually contains stringy white quesillio cheese, sliced avocado, astringent and aromatic papalo leaves, a homemade chipotle sauce, and your choice of fillings. In this case, I went right for the pata, gelatinous stewed cow foot, but there are plenty of other fillings available at La Fiesta: milanesa de res (a beef schnitzel, the most popular filling), milanesa de pollo, jamon, pierna adobada, carne enchilada (con rajas), carne arabe, al pastor, carnitas, Cubana (a Puebla riff on a Cuban sandwich), and Hawaii (eek! pineapple and boiled ham). 415 East 138th Street, Bronx, 718-585-5730