Organ Recital: Pig Stomach at Best Fuzhou
Fujianese are particularly fond of variety meats, none more so than goose intestines and pig stomach.
Beef tripe is made from the second ruminant stomach of a cow, known as the reticulum. It is snow white when properly cleaned, nearly neutral in flavor, and possesses a striking texture, which leads to the term "honeycomb" tripe.
Pigs are not ruminants, and have a single stomach that is mainly muscle, and textured as such. Pig tripe is rubbery and chewy, and really stands up to sauces in a way that beef tripe does not. In Fujianese restaurants like Best Fuzhou, the tripe is stir fried with mushrooms, bamboo shoots, and snow pea pods, and served in a light sauce thickened with cornstarch and redolent of garlic and ginger. 71A Eldridge Street, 212-219-3328
Next: More tripe from Fork in the Road