Organ Recital: Pig Stomach at Best Fuzhou

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Pig stomach bears virtually no resemblance to its bovine counterpart.

Fujianese are particularly fond of variety meats, none more so than goose intestines and pig stomach.

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Beef tripe is made from the second ruminant stomach of a cow, known as the reticulum. It is snow white when properly cleaned, nearly neutral in flavor, and possesses a striking texture, which leads to the term "honeycomb" tripe.

Pigs are not ruminants, and have a single stomach that is mainly muscle, and textured as such. Pig tripe is rubbery and chewy, and really stands up to sauces in a way that beef tripe does not. In Fujianese restaurants like Best Fuzhou, the tripe is stir fried with mushrooms, bamboo shoots, and snow pea pods, and served in a light sauce thickened with cornstarch and redolent of garlic and ginger. 71A Eldridge Street, 212-219-3328

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Next: More tripe from Fork in the Road



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