Revisit: Keste Pizzeria in the West Village
I'm pleased to announce that the pizzas at Keste have gotten much better since I reviled them for sloppy baking several months ago, and attributed it to inexperience with their own oven. Wood ovens are like people; it takes a while to get to know them. At the time, I promised to return after the oven had been broken in.
The margherita ($12) I ate there yesterday was a masterpiece, sporting a pristine floe of white cheese, pleasantly plain tomato sauce, a perfect strew of basil leaves, and, most important, a crust worthy of Naples places like Da Michele, stipled with char, thin and wobbly in the middle under the admittedly damp ingredients, the crust around the periphery bulbous and tender without being doughy or underdone.