Under Review: DiGregorio at Lan Sheng; Sietsema on Dining Trends of the Aughts
This week in the Voice, Sarah DiGregorio discovers delicious, authentic Sichuan and a labor dispute at Lan Sheng. Our Man Sietsema rounds up the decade's best dining and drinking trends (Neapolitan pizza! Ramen! Beer!).
Sam Sifton revisits La Grenouille, pronouncing it "a classic French restaurant... Its strength is still, as Bryan Miller wrote in The New York Times almost 20 years ago, the excellence of its stocks, the basis of its magnificent sauces."
Ryan Sutton deems Abe & Arthur's a "multi-level space in the Meatpacking District populated with the fashionably malnourished," while Tanuki Tavern is "the rare [Jeffrey] Chodorow spot that offers semi-authentic, mostly satisfying cuisine."
Gael Greene notes that "Eleven Madison Park has grown into its bones. [Danny] Meyer had thought it should be a brasserie. Then one day he decided the space called for something more grand."