The Early Word: Prime Meats in Carroll Gardens, Brooklyn

A homemade pretzel, served with butter and tangy mustard, is one of the glories of Prime Meats.

With a name like Prime Meats, you think the place--spawned by Frankie's Spuntino, just down the block--would be a steak house, but it isn't...

Sure, there are a couple of steaks on the menu. One is a 36-day aged ribeye you pay $1.80 per ounce for, with steaks averaging 36 to 56 ounces, which is off somewhere in Looneyville, or maybe I should say Lugerville, for the purposes of general eating. And if you wanted a steak that big and expensive, wouldn't you go to a steakhouse?

The other steak is a very handsome steak frites ($23), which, the menu brags, is a "12 ounce dry aged Creekstone Farm New York strip steak." This steak is really a masterpiece, charred on the outside, warm and bloody in the middle, served with a fistful of good fries. Really, it's enough for two to share, and my pal and I did so. What with apps and desserts, they'll be enough left over for a sandwich tomorrow.

The excellent strip steak in Prime Meats' steak frites is not to be trifled with

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