The Early Word: The Dessert Truck's DT Works

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DT Works' creme brulee, crust properly blowtorched.

Last Friday, after a five-month hiatus, Jerome Chang's Dessert Truck was resurrected as DT Works, an airy, minimally but handsomely decorated storefront on Clinton Street. With its white walls and wooden tables, it even looks a bit like its original incarnation, so it follows that the menu is more or less the same as well.

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Bread pudding comes submerged in a pool of vanilla sauce.

All of the Dessert Truck's greatest hits are here (and are priced at $6 apiece), including the chocolate brioche bread pudding, creme brulee, caramelized apples over puff pastry, and hot chocolate. If what we tried was any indication, quality has also made the journey from street to store. The bread pudding came submerged in a speckled vanilla sauce and was garnished with a quenelle of whipped cream that, with its protruding shard of chocolate, looked like a sailboat floating on a custard sea. It was more pudding than bread, which was not a bad thing, given that it was intensely good pudding: rich and velvety, its sweetness was tempered by cacao content and rounded out by vanilla seeds.

The creme brulee was, well, creme brulee. There were no bells and whistles, only a satisfyingly crackly, expertly browned crust sheltering a creamy and surprisingly light custard. If you happen to be a creme brulee freak, then DT Works has your number.

The hot chocolate ($3) will be manna to those who like their hot chocolate strong and thick enough to pass as something that could have been pumped from an underground well. Made with a mix of Valrhona and Guittard chocolate and a touch of heavy cream, it's kind of like molten cake batter, and, if left in a refrigerator over night, would doubtless turn into excellent pudding. In its original form, it's wonderful stuff, rich without being cloying, barely sweetened, and malignantly smooth as top-shelf whiskey. Cafe Pedlar may be just down the block, but this witch's brew makes Stumptown look like chamomile tea. As the disclaimers say, please drink responsibly.

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Hot chocolate: leaded.

DT Works
6 Clinton Street


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