Francis Lam Enjoys a Hand-Pulled Noodle Crawl

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Kuai An's special hand-pulled noodles.
We at Fork in the Road have long been enamored of hand-pulled noodles. Salon's Francis Lam is, too: today on Salon's Food Section, he devotes a few hundred choice words to a recent hand-pulled noodle crawl he conducted through Chinatown. And over the course of his travels, he made a surprising discovery.

While enjoying the Lanzhou specialty at Kuai An, Lam learns from a server that "[a]ll the Lanzhou noodle shops in New York are owned by Fujianese." Many Lanzhou noodle masters, she explains, "opened noodle shops in Fujian, so we learned the dish from them and brought it here."

If what we and Lam have tasted is any indication, it's a lesson that was well-learned.


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