A Catalog of Travertine's Dishes

Travertine looks like the sort of place that cares more about its DJ than its chef. The female servers have been made to dress like Julia Roberts in Pretty Woman. Unch-unch-unch booms the music. "May I say a few words about the menu," says the waiter, without really asking, and proceeds to up-sell with a passion. When the food arrives, he will say, "Madam will be enjoying the lamb." Oh, will madam?

Maybe it was the result of low expectations, but it turned out that the chef, Manuel Trevino, formerly of Babbo and Top Chef, is turning out some pretty good food. The Italian-New American dishes are not particularly inventive or memorable, but they're solid. Pastas, made in-house, are delicious

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Anil Mhatre
Pig's head terrine
Pig's head terrine ($13) should offer a more generous portion of the terrine itself, but is rich and porcine, brightened with pickled onion and carrot.

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Anil Mhatre
Roasted bone marrow with gremolata
Roasted bone marrow ($16) is as it should be, especially good squished onto toasts smeared with sweet, tar-like black garlic. But the kumquat-duck marmalade that comes alongside is overkill.
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Anil Mhatre
Beef carpaccio
The beef carpaccio ($14) with beets and gorgonzola looks pretty but needs salt to taste like anything at all.

Click through to see the mains...

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