The "Brazilian" at Project Sandwich in Soho

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The Brazilian at Project Sandwich proves to be exceedingly well dressed, shown here in dappled sunshine.

When I heard about a new spot on Thompson Street called Project Sandwich, I wasn't too interested, partly because I've eaten so many newfangled sandwiches lately, but also because the name sounded like a reality TV show--albeit one in which the sandwiches, badly dressed, flounce down the sidewalk begging the judges to eat them.

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The small, well-decorated eating area holds only three tables, so be prepared to carry out.

Still, the small collection of internationally themed sandwiches seemed spot-on in their evocation of ethnic tastes, and the sandwich called The Brazilian held the most appeal. So I dropped by yesterday to try it.

The sandwich was humongous, made on a square of golden focaccia that had been split diagonally. The bread was piled with grilled steak something like Steak-Ums, but good nonetheless, having been marinated in something called smoked salt. Next on were pickles, tomatoes, fresh mozzarella (which melts slightly under the influence of the warm steak), and a version of Argentine chimichurri that's been transformed by pungent cilantro and strong vinegar.

The sandwich was $8. Not a bad deal, but I was even more impressed by the soup of the day, a minestrone chock full of macaroni and vegetables, and quite an appealing meal in itself.

Project Sandwich also sells chips and sodas. See the menu here. 105 Thompson Street, 212-625-2388

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The chunky minestrone was one of two daily special soups, and quite appealing, tastewise.

Please send your restaurant tips to fork@villagevoice.com


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