We Have Tasted of Fatty 'Cue, and It Was Good.

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Jori Klein/Metromix
Pelaccio sez: Fatty 'Cue by the end of the month.
After an unsuccessful trip to Pies 'n' Thighs yesterday afternoon (damn you, Department of Buildings!), one-half of Fork in the Road was lucky enough to happen upon Zak Pelaccio, standing out in the sun in front of the nearly completed Fatty 'Cue. Pelaccio, who expects to open the restaurant by the end of the month, was gracious enough to take us on a tour of the space, which was humming with activity and looked quite fantastic.

The restaurant is split into a few sections -- you enter into a low-ceilinged room with a handsome bar on one side and a copper wall on the other. The diminutive kitchen sits at the back of the room; when we visited, it was crammed with cooks who were experimenting with a new soup like chemists in a lab. Pelaccio and his team have been hard at work creating new versions of spices never seen before (at least in Williamsburg), and the soup in question was built from a rich, complex broth that sang with all sorts of Southeast Asian flavors and left our lips burning happily.

Next to the main room is a dining area with a high ceiling and a winsome mural painted by Jori Emde. Nearby sat a statue of a pig, covered in pink glitter. Also Emde's handiwork, it will eventually be made into a chandelier that will preside, disco ball-style, over the diners below. A stairway leads from the dining area up to a mezzanine, whose walls have been covered with children's wallpaper that Pelaccio and Emde found somewhat randomly; the area looks out over the dining room and out into the backyard.

Out in the entrance to the backyard, which belongs to the neighbors, sit the massive barbecue pits, which when we visited were being tended by pitmaster Robbie Richter. Hulking and gleaming, they've been the site of much experimentation. Pelaccio and his gang have also been experimenting with the smokers, putting all sorts of things in there you'd never imagine.

In other words, if what we tasted and saw was any indication, Fatty 'Cue, whether it opens by the end of the month or at a later date, will have been worth the wait.

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