Dish No. 61: Press 195's No. 12
Today's pick: The No. 12 ($8.50) at Press 195 (195 Fifth Avenue, Brooklyn, 718-857-1950).
"No. 12" is shorthand for a big exuberant mess of fontina, provolone, sun-dried tomatoes, artichoke hearts, and black bean hummus that's been piled between thick slabs of ciabatta and grilled until everything is fused together in gooey harmony.
As sandwich fillings go, artichoke hearts, sun-dried tomatoes, and cheese aren't particularly novel, but what makes the No. 12 so memorable is the black bean hummus, which adds earthy depth to the tang of the 'chokes, softens the salinity of the tomatoes, and cuts through the gloriously fatty morass of the cheese.
The ciabatta, too, lives up to the standards of its fillings, thanks to its crunchy crust and pillowy innards. And while the pickles that accompany the panino are a little on the sweet side, they provide a refreshing counterpoint to the savory onslaught.
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