Dish No. 62: 'Cue Coriander Bacon at Fatty 'Cue
Today's pick: 'Cue Coriander Bacon ($11) at Fatty 'Cue.
91 South 6th Street
Coriander-marinated and long-smoked over hardwoods, 'Cue Coriander Bacon is tendered in thick swatches, unctuous and pungently flavored. It's served with plain white bread toasts -- recalling the Wonder Bread served at great Texas barbecues -- and a taxicab-yellow curried custard that you'll never quite figure out what to do with. You can spoon it up with the tiny spoon and eat it between bites of toast and bacon, or you can spread it on the bread, either with or without a piece of pork.
Fatty 'Cue describes itself as a mash-up: the admixture of a doctinaire Central Texas barbecue with a Southeast Asian curry shop. You sit at the crux, a smile spreading across your face.
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