Dish No. 71: Russ & Daughters' Super Heebster
Welcome to 100 Dishes to Eat Now, Fork in the Road's handy list of some of our favorite dishes -- old standbys and new finds alike -- compiled daily.
Today's pick: The Super Heebster ($10.45) from Russ & Daughters.
While Russ's star attraction is its immaculate smoked and cured salmon, its whitefish salad is also a thing of salty, savory beauty. The Super Heebster provides it with an excellent showcase: A generous helping of the salad -- which is made from smoked whitefish, baked salmon, chopped onions, and a bit of mayonnaise -- is heaped onto a bagel that's been anointed with a smear of horseradish cream cheese, and then topped off with a spoonful of wasabi-flavored flying fish roe.
The sandwich is a vibrant crazy-quilt of heat, umami, smoke, and salt, and also boasts plenty of textural thrills that come courtesy of the cream cheese, whipped to ethereal heights; the crunchy, snappy roe; the silky, voluptuous whitefish salad; and the bagel, which boasts a nice, shiny crust and pleasantly chewy innards. While you can get pretty much any bagel you'd like -- there's now even a whole-wheat Everything -- we recommend pumpernickel or Everything.
We also recommend eating the Super Heebster as soon as humanly possible after purchase, preferably on the bench outside the shop, which affords the opportunity to contemplate the Lower East Side as you chew through the perfect alchemy of the neighborhood's savory past and irreverent, unexpected present.
Russ & Daughters
179 East Houston Street
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