Dish No. 31: Smoked Sable and Bottarga at Pulino's

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Welcome to 100 Dishes to Eat Now, Fork in the Road's handy list of some of our favorite dishes -- old standbys and new finds alike -- compiled daily.

Today's pick: Smoked sable with celery and bottarga agliata ($15) at Pulino's (282 Bowery).

Pulino's marquee, ultra-thin pizzas may be a bit of a disappointment, but some of the restaurant's auxiliary dishes taste wonderful. This appealing appetizer plate is salty sea butter piled on salty sea butter. The smoked sable is flopped into a rich pool of bottarga-laced agliata--a simple, ancient sauce similar to aioli that's made with bread, garlic, and olive oil pounded together until smooth. With the oceanic funk of the dried roe, it's a sauce to write home about.

The buttery fish gets a welcome jolt of acidity from a handful of capers and a bitter vegetal edge from a smattering of celery leaves. It's completely delicious, something you'd order to share with the table and then wish you had your own plate.

Next:Chew all the dishes so far ...


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Pulino's Bar and Pizzeria

282 Bowery, New York, NY

Category: Restaurant

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