Dish No. 34: Truffled Egg Toast at 'ino
Today's pick: Truffled egg toast ($9) at 'ino (21 Bedford Street, 212-989-5769)
Over a decade ago, tiny wine bar 'ino was first out of the gate with authentic versions of the Italian sandwiches panini and tramezzini. While the first caught on in a big way all over town, tramezzini (untoasted sandwiches made with crustless white bread) have remained relatively unique. But there were several other items on the menu, too, including the sainted truffled egg toast.
The dish begins with a thick, hollowed-out slice of bread. It is then heaped with truffled cheese, which is annealed to the upper surface of the bread in the salamander. After that, a raw egg yolk is deposited in the indentation.
Once you've tried it, you'll crave it forever. It can't be picked up with your hands, and when you cut it with a knife, the yolk breaks and floods the plate with yellow. This serves as a rich sauce for both the cut-up asparagus that surrounds it, and the toast itself. The reason for the thickness of the bread become instantly apparent: It allows the toast to absorb extra sauce, and no sticky yellow remains after you've finished.
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