The Great Hot Dog Hoax: Daniel Angerer's 'Brats--Dogs & Wieners'
Daniel Angerer - chef of the pretty-good restaurant Klee Brasserie - made a big splash a few months ago by offering customers a taste of cheese allegedly made from his wife's breast milk. At the time, I called it a hoax, asserting that it would take way more breast milk to make the cheese than he claimed. Now another kind of hoax from the same chef looms on the horizon.
"Brats--Dogs & Wieners" is the name of Angerer's new sausage shop, near the intersection of West 23rd Street and Ninth Avenue, just around the corner from Klee. I had high hopes as I entered the narrow storefront, which is equipped with a bar that dives deep into the premises, some scant counter seating, and a couple of tables in the rear. For diners, the place is none too comfortable, and anywhere you sit, you'll feel like you're just perching.
But the menu made my jaw drop. There was an intriguing list of sausages - low on the standards, high on the newfangled and invented - but the cheapest one was $8. There were a few in that range, but then the prices zoomed upward, with a couple in the teens (including a Westy Seafood Dog made with "sustainable West Coat Shrimp" -- $14.50, push my buttons, Daniel!) and a pair of franks topping $20 (including a Japanese dog made with Aukashi beef, $24.50). The jokey metal sign on the wall that said "Hot Dogs 15 Cents" was rendered ridiculous.