Dish No. 16: Chicken Livers With Onions Over Rice at Cosmos Diner
Today's pick: Chicken livers with onions over rice ($9) at Cosmos Diner (395 Second Avenue, 212-679-1290).
I never thought I'd see the day when the Greek diner -- with its mixture of American comfort food and Greek culinary commonplaces -- would become an exotic oddity, but the day has arrived. Serving the students and faculty of the School of Visual Arts for several decades, Cosmos is a great example of the genre, and Cosmo himself still sits at the register most evenings, raking in the dough.
The best part of the menus is the sautés, which include the above-mentioned dish: a whole heap of fresh poultry livers, cooked to perfection with lots of onions, translucent but not quite caramelized. They're poured over a giant heap of rice, which absorbs the buttery juices. And you don't have to be a member of the Organ Meat Society to enjoy this incredibly rich dish -- or a millionaire, either. Comes with a salad or soup, and choice of pasta or potato.
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