Robert Sietsema Heads Uptown to Szechuan Chalet
This week in the Voice, Robert Sietsema finds authentic Sichuan uptown -- of all places -- at Szechuan Chalet.
Sam Sifton awards two stars to Lincoln: "[S]uccess in the kitchen does not mean Lincoln yet works well as a restaurant. On that score, [chef Jonathan] Benno and the Patina Group still have some distance to go. They have built a restaurant that lacks a center -- a restaurant in which it is possible to eat well without really having a good time."
Adam Platt approves of the primi, but not so much the secondi, at Osteria Morini: "After the fireworks of the early courses, in fact, many of the entrées at Osteria Morini had a leaden, slightly anticlimactic feel."
Meanwhile, Ryan Sutton finds the food at Osteria Morini a little too fatty: "[Chef-owner Michael White] should ease up on the cholesterol and make Morini the excellent restaurant it deserves to be."
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