Greenpoint's New Calexico Carne Asada

The tacos (carne asada left, fried fish right) are only a step above Taco Bell, strictly for people who don't like Mexican food.

At $5, the tacos are way more expensive than they ought to be. A single corn tortilla wraps a choice of carne asada, pollo asado, tofu asado, pulled pork, fried fish, or black beans. The fish was nicely breaded and fried, and sluiced with the so-called crack sauce, which is really a mild chipotle mayo, basically confirming the principle that mayo makes everything taste better. The fish taco thus proved very bland, as did the carne asada taco, which had a runny form of the house guac squiggled on top, along with tomatoes and shredded greenery. It was marginally better than the Baja-style fish taco, but it begged comparison with the same (and cheaper) product at Dos Toros, which is superior in every way.

Our favorite dish at the new Calexico was the black bean quesadilla, which was a better deal at $7, and might come close to filling you up if you're not very hungry. The black beans are especially good, but if you're a vegetarian or pescetarian, don't get excited: The beans are enhanced with lots of bacon.

The menu seems like out-and-out bar food, and it wouldn't have been as disappointing if it had been priced like bar food (i.e., a little cheaper, as bar food often is, as an incentive to stay and down more drinks).

Yes, I know Cal-Mex cuisine should be blander than the southern Mexican food we're used to, but this place is ridiculous!

The best thing we tried was the quesadilla.

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