Whole Porgy at Cholulita Deli in Brooklyn
Sometimes what you really want is a simple fish simply cooked. Whether snowy or dusty, there's nothing better than the moist fish flesh as it pulls easily away from the bone, and the crisp skin's an extra boon, due to the lightest dusting of flour imaginable prior to quick frying.
The porgy -- a local fish -- is beloved of Greeks and Mexicans, and at the Cholulita Deli, a bodega turned Mexican diner on Broadway in Brooklyn, a whole porgy, perfectly fried, goes for $10. The fish is fresh as a breeze off of Jamaica Bay, and the platter that it comes on also includes a copious salad with extra avocado and a mesa of yellow rice and lake of refried beans -- plus as many tortillas as you need to scoop up whatever morsels remain. And don't forget the gratis chips and salsa, making this a feed of major proportions.
Cholulita Deli, "El Original"
Bedford-Stuyvesant, Brooklyn (just barely)
Note: A full review will appear online Tuesday evening, and in the paper Wednesday morning.