Fiesta vs. Inca: Battle of the Bushwick Birds

The half bird at Inca Chicken gleams big and moist. Fries, not so good.

Rotisserie chickens remain the unsung heroes of fast-food dining. While chefs generally revile folks who dig roast chicken -- considered to be the blandest and most uninspired thing on most menus -- the public clamors for more pullets, whether extracted from the hot case in supermarkets, or torn straight from the rotisseries at small ma-and-pa cafés, representing over a dozen ethnicities.

For those who like their birds "well done" -- Fiesta Chicken.

In Bushwick, in particular, the chicken wars are heating up. Up the slope near Wyckoff Heights Hospital, medical workers and outpatients alike are clamoring for roast chickens, and several places in the surrounding blocks are gearing up to sell them. But which to buy among many choices, since the prices are all ridiculously low? Just east of the hospital, a pair of places -- one Dominican, one Peruvian -- are currently in fierce head-to-head competition. On a recent Sunday afternoon, Fork in the Road decided to give both a try.

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