With Gravy, Has Southern Food Officially Jumped the Shark?

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Gravy, the Wavy kind.
It was only a matter of time before New York's sudden surfeit of buttermilk biscuits, stone-ground grits, faux-homey "smokehouses," and tastefully sourced, reservations-only fried chicken would be taken to its inevitable, shark-vaulting end. And thanks to Gravy, the end is nigh.

Gravy, per its ominous press release, is a 145-seat, 6,000-square-foot restaurant set to open on East 21st Street at some point this spring. When it does, it will bestow "flavors of the American South" upon New York. Those flavors will be the work of a "strategic operations-oriented restaurant management group." A "culinary concept chef," Michael Vignola, will oversee the menu, which promises to be "market-driven" (aren't all restaurants, technically speaking, market-driven?) and deliver "modern riffs on Southern classics," possibly in the same way a cow riffs on methane gas.

Now that the flavors of the American South are getting their strategic operations-oriented, 14-seat marble-bar treatment, it's possible to look back at all of those seemingly innocent pecan hand pies and artisanal pimento spreads and weep retrospective tears. The South has fallen yet again, this time into a vat of corporate-branded drippings.


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7 comments
Perdie
Perdie

The author of this article is a bitter moron who knows nothing. Well Gravy is now open and it is amazing. Shame on this frivolous reporting before a place even opens. Well the Village Voice has jumped the shark....time to move on to Time Out who gives fair reviews.

Pdesiano
Pdesiano

you are a clown who has no idea of the restaurant biz and what it takes to succeed. From my breif research, i see no signs of corporate behind this endeavor. what a joke, i cant stop laughing. I hope you dont get paid for this garbage

Stachio81
Stachio81

This article seems to be jumping the shark. I am hard pressed to find factual information but more so your bitterness from some previous unrelated experience. Without tasting a single item on the menu or walking through the restaurant's doors, how can you be so sure what Gravy will be or will not be? Your generalizations make it clear you know very little about Southern cuisine and the group of people behind this project. Shame on you for passing this off as some form of journalism. I suggest the next time you are coming up on a deadline and have nothing to submit, you bite the bullet like a big girl and fess up to your editor that you haven't got anything worth reading to say.

pouj
pouj

What a waste of my time. Are you feuding with the owner or chef? Review the food, when and if this place opens. As anyone who comes from the South knows, pimento loaf and pecan pie are hardly the be-all and end-all of our daily eating.

Gami
Gami

Gravy is EMPTY, DEAD, no one goes there!  And the food isn't good!  Soon it will be, as they say in the "south", gone with the wind

Runawayfilm
Runawayfilm

This place sucks !!! We went there at 9:30 on a Thursday and they were already closed.They sent us to the bar or lounge area, after 50 minutes our appetizer finally came and they were shit on a stick. The owner is a big fat ass Italian that has no business being at the bar, or cooking southern cuisine. The food is over priced and the atmosphere is a joke, do yourself a favor and go outside and walk three doors to the west and hit that place up. It is way more fun and the kitchen stays open till 1am.

Reginagrossman
Reginagrossman

Too Funny ! The owner is a joke, sitting at the bar, when he should be in the Kitchen Cooking or learning how to cook. Our apps took forever to come, and when they finally showed up. We were so disappointed with the tastless flavors and the over priced waterdown whiskey drinks. Bad area nothing going on, they should of opened in Alaska.

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