Robert Sietsema at Hofbräu Bierhaus; Lauren Shockey at La Silhouette
Sam Sifton awards three stars to the Chef's Table at Brooklyn Fare, raving, "What [César] Ramirez is doing at the Chef's Table is entirely his own production, a kind of sui generis exercise in personal expression."
Sifton also has a lot of love for Giuseppina's Pizza: "a wide and bubbling pie ($20), smelling of fresh basil, of Parmesan and tomato sauce and the warm-milky scent of mozzarella (roughly half of it made from cow's milk, roughly half from water buffalo's). The crust is chewy, pliant, with a dull complexion that belies its great flavor. ... The combination is aces high."
Adam Platt notes misfires aplenty at David Burke Kitchen: "The entrées at this farm-to-table restaurant are predictably rich and protein-heavy, and some of them stand up to the two-fisted Burkean treatment better than others."
Steve Cuozzo is pleasantly surprised by Imperial No. Nine: "Sam Talbot's menu aims not for grandeur but for good, clean fun. It delivers more than you expect from a chef better-known for his Top Chef persona than for a track record in actual restaurants. This is party-animal feed for adult animals, mingling pungent notes of Asia and Talbot's native Charleston, SC."
Jay Cheshes falls for Porsena: "Like visiting a solicitous neighbor whose kitchen is always stocked with good things to eat, it's easy for a visitor to imagine [Sara] Jenkins happily tending the range here, glass of red wine in one hand, sauté pan in the other. ... The best of her pastas are spontaneous and comforting."
Gael Greene echoes the critics' praise of Red Rooster: "Everything you may have read about Red Rooster is true. It draws a standing room only crowd that is as diverse as its menu. ... Marcus Samuelsson and partners launched hot and the place hasn't cooled yet."
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