Five Dishes Worth Traveling From Anywhere To Get
The steamed fish head with pickled chili sauce is a Hunanese miracle.
Reviewing restaurants requires a long lag time, and two or three months often separate the first time I visit a place and when the critique appears in print. But sometimes, dishes are so exciting that I can't wait to tell you about them. Here are five I ate recently.
1. Steamed Fish Head With Pickled Chili Sauce at Hunan Kitchen -- Fish head conjures up ideas of penurious pots of soup, but this specimen is magnificent: lots of flesh around the collar and jowly cheeks like Winston Churchill, all deposited in a rich limpid broth into which the color from the red pickled chiles leeches. And, over rice, the copious broth turns out to be the best part. 42-47 Main Street, Flushing, Queens, 718-888-0553
My crew one weekend at Hunan Kitchen (steamed fish head in center of table)
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